Cycling with Sally

Colombia has a dark past and it is only in the last 10 years where it has been safe for tourists and locals to travel.  Many of the towns we visit here don’t typically receive many foreigners and we are finding Colombianos so thrilled to have us in their country that they will go out of there way to disolve this dangerous image that still lingers.  We have met so many generous, kind, thoughtful, inviting people here and now we find our bags are weighed down with treasures to remember our experiences of this beautiful country.

David (couchsurfing) seemed to know everyone in the cute town of Chinchinà and although he had a manic schedule with work he was determined to showcase his town.  We had a pleasant few hours at a local coffee plantation (Hacienda Guayabal) where we learn about the coffee production process.  We took in a lot of interesting things with David but a highlight for us was taking a trip to the market where we marvelled and sampled a  range of exotic fruits (see video above).  This was so helpful as we often see unusual looking fruit and want to try them but are unsure of how to prepare and eat it.

We don’t really want to share this news (but it did happen) that we had our first theft of the trip.  Our pump, lock and key, and dog dazzer were taken from us where we had stopped for a break in a bakery.  We were literally four metres from our bike but could only see the front half.   This could have happened anywhere as we were in a big city and it was a good reminder we need to be more vigilent with Big Bird and valuables.  We had hardly had time to feel upset about our loss when we were flagged down by Luis and Aura, two strangers that saw us panting up a hill and wanted to invite us in for lunch.  It was very unexpected but perfectly timed.  We had an entire conversation in Spanish while feasting on some typical Colombian cuisine, with our favourite being the dessert of sweet baked pumpkin in milk (Ahuyama).

In Armenia we were guests of Diego (couchsurfing) and his parents.  We were pleasantly surprised when Diego suggested we visit the nearby town of Salento in Valle de Cocora as we had hummed and ha-ed (is that a real word?) about cycling there ourselves.  It was a little town surrounded by rolling hillside with all the doors of the buildings painted different colours.  It reminded us of the many quaint towns we passed through in Mexico.

Two times on this stretch we have been mobbed by curious and friendly locals in the main plazas of Chinachinà and Tuluà.  At points we had maybe 100 people around us, studying our bike, asking questions or just simply watching our every move.  My sister Emily said we should break out in dance one time and really get them talking!  In these smaller towns the local news channels got word of us and wanted to interview us (see video above).  We really don’t know how we did at satisfying their questions but we did answer every question!  Hopefully we will get the clips put on youtube so you can have a giggle at us stumbling over our Spanish. 

Just when we thought the terrain of Colombia was all about mountains, we hit our first patch of flat and made exceptional time to Tuluà.  Our host here (Elizabeth from couchsurfing) wanted to keep us forever!  She and her daughter (Sofia) were such sweethearts and it was difficult to say goodbye.  We spent a really chill afternoon at a park with them which has swimming pools, a river, and playing fields.  By far the best actiivity was taking a tube ride down the meandering river.

We then busted-it to the third biggest city in Colombia, Cali.  Typically we struggle with navigating in large cities with our clumsy beast (sorry Big Bird!).  The combination of the traffic, multiple lanes, noise and unfamilar surroundings can be stressful.  This was not the case here as Claudia and her family (friends of Malo, who we stayed with in Costa Rica) received us at the edge of town and guided us back to their home.  We ate so well, trying different typical foods (love the pandebonos)!  Eyes were popping watching Roland eat plate after plate, not wanting to waste a morsel!  We weren’t allowed to lift a finger to pull our weight but we did sneak in some zuchinni pancakes.  We got a complete tour of this sprawling city with the entire family from the comforts of a car and listening to Colombian salsa and Cuban music.

Things you may not know…..

·         Arrepas are to Colombia  are what tortillas are to Mexico.  Arrepas are made out of corn, are quite thick and complement every meal.   Panela, the other Colombian staple is made from sugar cane and comes in large brown blocks.  You then dissolve it in water and creeps its way into various drinks (coffee, hot chocolate and juice) and also sweetens desserts aswell.  They love cheese here too, they put it in anything: hot chocolate, bread and sweet pastries.  It’s actually pretty good with Roland’s favourite being a cheese and toffee donut.

·         Bamboo can grow 7cms a day and in optimal conditions up to 10-20cms.  We have seem a lot of construction here made out of bamboo so it is put to good use.

·         Coffee bean workers earn 300 pesos (about 15 cents U.S.) for every kilo of ripe beans picked.  The most someone has ever picked (on the plantation we visited) was 400 kilos earning him $60 U.S for a very labour entensive day.

·         You can’t just slap on a stamp and mail a letter here in Colombia.  There must be a return address and you need to fill out a form like you would with a package.  It is quite the formality!

·         Over the weekend was the Presidential Elections and to increase voter turnout all bars, clubs and liquor stores were closed two days prior.