In keeping with our detour tendencies, we decided to adjust our original plans of going from San Cristobal to Guatemala and instead check out some more Mayan ruins, flat stretches of road and some really hot and humid weather. Mission Completed. In an attempt to avoid the hottest part of the day (between 12-4), we find ourselves getting up at five and hitting the road by six. But all things considered, its always hot, just some parts of the day are smoking hot i.e. 40 degrees celius hot.

As we set off for the town Osocingo and the neighboring Tonina ruins, everything was going according to plan and we were making pretty good time, except for the thousand billion trillion (topes) speed bumps which always seemed to plant themselves on our descents. This was only enhanced by a few kids that have devised a clever way of making traffic stop and increase their chances of a quick sell of fruit, water and pop. By attaching a rope with small flags to a tree on one side of the road and then pulling the rope from the other side, they definitely command our attention as we come barrelling around a corner.  Once in Osocingo, we quickly found some accommodations, navigated our bike into our room and set off to the Tonina ruins. These ruins were really nice, no vendors to avoid, very few people and beautiful grounds. This was a very relaxing and scenic way of finishing a full morning of cycling.
Well except a certain someone losing our hotel key.
It is worth noting that this imposing temple complex brought mighty Palenque to it´s knees and Palenque was our next destination.

Tonina Ruins

In similar fashion to the day before we managed to get to Palenque in the early afternoon, found our couch surfing host Uala inside the Nation Palenque Park and have a restful evening visiting the impressive ruins, weaving through the thousands of tourists and saying ¨no thank you¨ to the many vendors.  The ancient Maya city of Palenque with it´s exquisite architecture in a superb jungle setting, is one of the marvels of Mexico. About 1400 to 6000 people visit here daily.
In exchange for three hours labor, we were able to spend a night in the jungle, share a terrific lunch together and have an unexpected guest in the evening.

The next we talked ourselves into the museum which was free but only with a valid entry ticket, ours was for the previous day.  While strolling through the many displays, we spotted an unusual bag, something that might attach itself to handlebars. You guessed it more cyclists. After walking through the museo de sitio together and having a great old time chatting away, we realized we hadn´t seen or read a thing and had to go through a second time. We hope to meet up with Pete and Dylan further down the road as they are bypassing the Yucatan.

Palenque Ruins

Our next destination was the relaxed city of Campeche, with manicured parks, clean cobbled stone streets, newly painted buildings in bright pastels hues and white and an exquisite broad malecon (waterfront boulevard) perfect for catching the sunset before it dips into the ocean. Next on the list was Uxmal, pronounced ooosh-mal. Fascinating, well preserved structures made of pink – hued limestone cover the wide area. Adding to its appeal are the many Iguanas making themselves right at home in the millions of crooks and crannies. It was well worth the 30km detour in the scorching hot.

Uxmal Ruins

After Uxmal we made a bee line to Merida to meet our host family.  Yapur found us through reading the CNN Mexico online article about us and invited us into his home.  It turns out that he is a professional racing cyclist and has won many competitions in Mexico and Central America.  It was a honour to met him let alone stay with him and his family.  His wife (lisa) and two children, April and Manuel were very easy going and a pleasure to get to know as well.  Manuel even gave up his own bed for us which was a huge gesture and his room had air conditioning with was amazing in the 40 degree and very humid climate.  It was very interesting for us learning more about racing and is in stark contrast to what we are doing.  Yapur's bike is like a porsche and ours is like a motorhome!  Yapur and Lisa generously gave us some new bike shorts as they were horrified of the condition of our current ones that are in a sorry state.  Yapur was able to refer us to an excellent bike mechanic as one of our rear wheel spokes broke and we didn't have the tool to remove the cassette.  They did a fantastic job and even gave Big Bird a scrub behind the ears and a new tape job on Belinda's handlebars.

We spend the better part of a day in Celestun, a nearby beach town that is known for it's flamingo viewing opportunities.  We jumped on a boat and got to see these rosy birds and was surprised to see how long and flexible their necks are.  The tour also went through some mangroves and we got to have a dunk in water with some fish too.

We ended up staying four nights in Merida and it was hard to leave such good company, however Yapur made our exit a little easier by cycling out of this relatively large city with us.  THANK YOU!

Crib Score
Roland 128
Belinda 77

Things we've seen on the side of the road
+ Body building competition on the beach
+ Police on Segways patrolling the Campeche waferfront
+ Burning (could see flames) milk truck
+ Monkeys and Iguanas
+ Baby bag with ID so handed in to officials
+ A cowboy hat that Roland gave to a guy on a bike taxi (these are abundant here in the Yucatán)
+ Small fires burning rubbish and vegetation (everywhere!)
+ Bus stop after bus stop after bus stop (which is awesome for us in this intensive heat and sun)
+ Trucks selling gas around suburban streets get attention by dragging a chain and metal rings under the truck.
 


Comments

Helen

Mon, 05 Apr 2010 15:22:48

I'm sitting here going WOW! Glad you did not miss any of these places! Beautiful plants - kids - cat (don't let Pedro know!)-peaople and amazing ruins. Makes NZ seem so young! The photo of you two might be a goodie for your front page.

 



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