Cycling with Sally

While updating our blog in San Juan, we were pleasantly surprised to hear the following questions in rapid succession, "Is this your bike? Where are you from?  Where are you going?  These perfectly pronounced English words came from Eugenia, an Argentinian who has been inspired to travel the world from her father. As we were later to discovered, some 40 years ago, Eugenia's father Jose drove his 1920 T-Ford to New York City and was very eager to show us around gorgeous city, as he had been on the receiving end so many times during his travels. Our first stop was Gran Cava, where we were educated about and sampled the smooth handmade champagne that is made in a cave for its optimal temperature. So cool and so Deee-licous! Next on the tour was the Museo de Vino Santiago Graffigna, where once again we learned more about the wine making industry, the history of the area and yes of course more sampling. After a few wine samples the prospect of cycling in the afternoon was becoming less attractive. Yet we pushed on, knowing that our last major city in Argentina, Mendoza awaited not too far off in the distance.

We were so impressed with the stunningly picturesque city of Mendoza, with its wide streets and sidewalks, green spaces and parks throughout and huge tree canopies that line every road providing shade and tranquility. It was pure joy walking around this newly constructed city that was destroyed some 50 years ago from a huge earthquake. With the wine, the baguettes, meats and cheeses,  ice cream, the mid-day siestas,  picnics and people in loving embraces throughout parks and of course soccer;  if you did not know any better, you would swear you were somewhere in Europe. 

Meeting Gustavo and Laura, our SERVAS hosts had an enormous influence on our stay here in Mendoza. We were blown away by Gustavo and Laura's culinary skills as they fired up the barbecue and treated us to some generous pieces of meat (called parredilla or asado in Argentina). Wow! so good and so filling! This was only to be outdone by Gustavo's gentle and inviting laugh and English vocabulary that generally focused around the word "cookie." Our time in Mendoza was divided up by volunteering (see volunteer page), sharing tea and a lot of good food with our new friends, visiting a huge inner city park (Parque General San Martin) that reminded us of One Tree Hill in Auckland, watching movies and resting.

The next few days can best be described by the well known Patty Loveless song, "What a difference a day makes" as in 24 wee hours we found ourselves going from shorts and t-shirts to freezing temperatures and howling winds that had snapped our flag pole in half and sent us flying off the road and off our bike to the slightly sweat inducing climate that accompanies the city of Santiago, Chile.  After our spill we realized that accommodation at Puente del Inca was a 'no brainer' and not going to be in the form of a tent. We quickly sought refuge at a small friendly hostal (El Nico) to rest our sore backs and bottoms and catch up on a few episodes of Law and Order. Puente del Inca translates to "bridge of the Inca" in Spanish and is a naturally formed bridge over the Vacas River which eventually flows into the Mendoza River. Unfortunately the bridge is now closed to the public and wooden fences and gates discourage people from crossing it. Some 2km further down the road we were privy to magnificent views of Mt. Aconcagua towering above us at 6962m, the highest in all the Americas.

The views on both sides of the 3200m high tunnel that separates Chile and Argentina are nothing short of brilliant and we only wished the conditions for cycling would have been more favorable.  While focusing for the past 800kms on our fragile and cracked front rim we were plenty upset and in disbelief to discover, that only 5 minutes after going through the Chilean customs building, we had destroyed our rear rim. This left us with one hairline cracked front rim, one massive sidewall cracked rear rim and two very tired and disappointed cyclists that could not enjoy the 29 hairpin downhill turns that followed.

However, after getting past the steepest part of the descent and some help from a friendly local we were back on frail Big Bird and made our way to our host's house on the outskirts of Santiago.  Now it's just a matter of sitting tight and waiting for our rims to arrive from The States that Velocity Rims are kindly sending to us for free. 

What made the list this week?

• Yerba mate is a very very popular herbal tea here in Argentina and is a social drink where only one cup is used and passed around the group.  The cup is called a 'mate gourda' and the metal straw containing a filter is called a 'bombilla'.  In fact, it is so popular with these folks that everyone carries around a thermos filled with hot water that you can fill up at any gas station for 1 peso.
• Gauchito Gil is thought of as a folk saint in many parts of Argentina.  We have passed many shrines on the side of the road in which everything is red.  As the story goes, after a colourful life of love and war, he was tortured and killed by police for alleged robbery and escape.  However, close to death he warned his murderer that his child was ill and that he could heal him.  After killing Gauchito and going home he discovered that his child was in fact ill.  He prayed to Gauchito for help and he was miraculously healed.
• Argentina loves siestas.  Particularly in small towns everything closes down between about 1 and 6pm.  We really like the concept (and it is necessary in parts as it gets uncomfortably hot under the sun in the afternoon) but it makes it a logistical nightmare for us planning our day i.e. arriving into a town at 3pm with no food means we have to wait to 6pm before the supermarket opens.

After reading several journals and getting firsthand accounts from 'the brothers' (only a few days ahead of us) about the terrain ahead; we made the difficult decision to catch the overnight train from Uyuni to Tupiza.  Thus skipping some horrendous washboard and sandy tracks (even worse than around the salt flats) that we didn't think Big Bird could handle.  From Tupiza to the Argentine border (Villazón) we found ourselves in the company of 30 other cyclists!  These 'Bike Dreamers' started their journey in Quito, Ecuador and will finish up in Ushuaia too.  We rolled up to their converted fire truck (SAG wagon) around lunchtime where some of the cyclists were sitting in chairs munching away on their sandwiches prepared by their in-house cook.  If that sounds good, they also have a mechanic, daily elevation profiles with detailed directions of each stage, accommodation is sorted, luggage is carried and if the going gets too tough all they need to do is jump on board.  We don't think they were expecting to see us again so they invited us to join them for lunch, which of course we did and sat in chairs!    Needless to say once you feed us we are like stray cats; hard to get rid of!  For the next 10 days we have played leap frog with this group (mainly from Europe) as we have similar kilometre goals each day but we just take much longer to achieve them. 

Crossing the border in Argentina was a long time coming!  After both of us having several bouts of tummy bugs through the last of Peru and basically our entire time in Bolivia, as well as Belinda getting Shingles and then a cold (just to top it all off) we were counting on Argentina for a lift of our spirits and realise for ourselves all the wonderful things others had been telling us about this country (maybe with a few more similarities and comforts we are accustomed to at home).  We also realised for the first time in 15 months that we had to change our 'end destination' when people asked where we were heading.  It had always been "Argentina" but now we need to be more specific and say "Ushuaia" as this is a pretty big country.

We have definitely got a sense of the size of Argentina as we continue south.  We have cycled through several stretches of between 70 and 100kms without passing a single sign of life, needing to ensure we had enough water to get us through.  Some of these roads require us just to knuckle down and do some serious cycling however the persistent head winds (no matter what direction we are going in) slow our progress down to even a crawl at times.  Due to these endless straight roads, lack of stimulation, wind and determined horse flies eager to take chunks out of us; Belinda has been driven to near madness but has planned her entire 30th birthday party, including plan A, B and C (just because she can).  Roland tends to just stare at kilometre markers or his handlebars or puzzles over where his muscly arms have gone..... oh, maybe behind that scrubby bush over there?

Stuff we are loving in Argentina:

• Camping.  Argentina very much has a camping culture where campgrounds are plentiful and sometimes we can even come across a freebie.  For example, ACA gas stations often have camping areas with picnic tables, use of showers, toilets, electricity and BBQ area. 
  
• 'Grido Helado' stores.  This is a chain of ice cream shops that can be found in almost every town with the best flavours and cheapest prices.  Our favourite is the 1/4kg punnet where you can choose three flavours for a $1.50.
• Food options. Although we are still deprived of our mainstay peanut butter, we have been enjoying the quality, variety and availability of deli products.  We have been feasting on salami and cheese baguettes, olives, walnuts, fresh fresh fruit, and new types of confectionery (often filled with nuts) and pastries (their favourite filling being 'dulce de leche').  If we were big wine drinkers we hear there are some pretty good drops here as well; particularly in the regions of Cafayate and Mendoza.
• Longer, warmer days.  Gets light at 6.30am and doesn't get dark till 8pm.
• Public toilets.  They have seats, toilet paper, soap and hand towels.  This all seems rather luxurious after Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia.
  

One curious thing happened as we entered into Argentina.  We assumed that getting money out of bank machines or exchanging cash, particularly at border towns would be effortless.  However, due to a long holiday weekend, with banks closed, money in the ATM's were running low or not at all.  After our fifth town we started to feel anxious about having no Pesos and the prospects of eating bland pasta and porridge didn't appeal.  We cycled (an unplanned) 150kms just to reach Humahuaca that was a touristy town and home to an International ATM machine.  This ATM was also out of money and so we sat in the main plaza devising how to get through the night; we felt pretty embarrassed and sorry for ourselves.  Then out of nowhere a couple of English cyclists, Jenny and Finn (we previously met in Bolivia) stopped to chat.  After hearing our dilemma they offered to change our leftover Bolivian currency but as luck would have it, just after doing the transaction Roland noticed men working behind the ATM machines filling it with heaps of money.  So in the end we were able to get money out, breath a sigh of relief and to celebrate we all went out together and had 'submarines' and cake.

Interesting stuff:

• Argentina has a short supply of change (coins) and the reasons for this seem to be a mystery (some talk of the bus system and the black market being one cause). Due to this, it is common practice to receive lollies instead of small denomination coins as part of your change.  This will happen in small stores operating out of a house right up to a national supermarket chain.  Maybe this is better than the Bolivian rounding system where (for example) one egg is 30 centavos, 2 is 60 centavos and 3 is 1 Boliviano, but somehow 4 will cost you 1.30.
• If you have a car to sell in Salta, all one has to do to advertise is place a plastic bottle filled with coloured liquid on the roof.
• Argentina's most loved Pagan Saint is Difunta Correa.  While travelling through a desert to aid her sick husband she died of thirst, yet her baby was found alive four days later still receiving milk from her ever-full breast.  While cycling we often see shrines dedicated to this Saint with many plastic bottles of water that people leave behind.  They do this to pay tribute and to ask for safe travel.
• Having marital struggles?  All we do is some magic.  Recently Roland was turned into a toad and Belinda was transformed into a cactus.  Now we couldn't be happier!

After cycling down from the high altitude and 'Quebrada de Humahuaca' (a gorge of vividly coloured rock and giant cacti) that was interspersed with pretty little villages we took the scenic Cornisa Road to Vaqueros (a rural town 10kms before Salta) that wound it's way through very green farmland, recreational areas and lakes.  Tomas and Nadia (our Warmshowers host) tipped us off to this brilliant suggestion in which we found the cycling "fun" whizzing around the sharp corners with narrow lanes and left us wondering what would be around the next bend.  Tomas and Nadia's place was like a refuge sanctuary where we ate fabulous vegetarian dishes, sampled local drinks and fresh strawberries with cream for dessert.  It didn't take much convincing to stay another night!  Not only is Nadia a carpenter, great cook and looking stunning in her first pregnancy, she also is an accomplished Stain glass Artist.  This longstanding art form definitely caught our eye and is something we would like to try in the future.  Tomas has a variety of books he is studying and vast work experience to draw from in preparation for building their own home and developing a farm to grow organic produce unique to the area.   It all sounded very exciting!  Also, Roland was able to commute to Salta (10kms there, 25kms back... whoopsie!) to give the bike a much needed service.  Many thanks to Ramon at the 'Casa de Cyclistas' for his assistance and correspondence throughout the week.

In 10 days of solid leg pumping action we passed by some vineyards near Cafayate and Santa Maria, went through the strange and striking 'Quebrada de Cafayate', and meandered heavenward once again through a canyon smattered with red and green colourings to 'Cuesta de Miranda' of 2020ms.  Most days we perspired under the midday heat of the sun through long stretches of spiky vegetation, dust and roads with dips (due to the 'phantom' rivers and streams).  But then hitting small towns we would feel refreshed after a cool, breezy break in the lush, green, tree-filled plazas often equipped with a handy spicket to load up on water.  These two environments are in stark contrast to one another.

Just to keep us on our toes we have managed to destroy yet another rim.  For those of you that are counting: this brings our total to seven.  After receiving some support from the Bike Dream crew and a local bike mechanic in Chilecito we did a swapsie-doozie and now have our good front rim on the back and a partly cracked rim on the front.  We are now keeping our finger's crossed we can make it to Santiago, Chile where Velocity Rims are sending us their strongest rim ever.

In Cusco we got a massive surprise thanks to Belinda´s persistence and embarrassment of Roland´s well worn and beloved convertible Mountain Hardwear pants. After several emails back and forth between the USA and Peru Mountain Hardwear Sales Representatives we soon found ourselves in RKF (a Mountain Hardwear distributor in Cusco) trying on some new threads. After 14 months of wearing the same pants camping, volunteering and for everyday use off the bike,  we were definately out of our element sampling the many different styles of trousers Mountain Hardwear has to offer. We honestly left the shop giddy with excitement and dumbfounded to what had just transpired. We can not thank Mountain Hardwear enough for making this happen and in such a timely fashion.  It truly felt like an early Christmas present and we can't stop checking each other out in our fancy new garments.  Also, we firmly believe Roland has been watching too much 'Project Runway' in his time off as he came back to the hostal one night with a smug grim on his face.  Wanting to 'spare' one of our destroyed tires from the rubbish bin he had expertly transformed it into a belt, buckle and all.  What do you think of that Heidi?  'Fashion forward' comes to mind.....

In theory the road from Cusco to La Paz would afford much flatter terrain and for some reason we got it stuck in our thick heads that it would be much easier and faster cycling. Yes we were able to pop out several 100km days and make an improved dent on our map, but it was still really tough going what with another mountain pass (Abra la Raya), strong head winds and the high altitude.  Cycling along the "altiplano" afforded us brilliant vast views of yellow grasses, farmland and mountains that seemed endless and was only disrupted by the train tracks that our road followed all the way to Puno. By the time we arrived in Puno (famous for the floating islands artificially made from Totara reeds) we were pretty knackered and feeling the effects of some long days on the bike as well as fighting off the sniffles. 

Our time visiting Isla de Uros proved to be the perfect remedy, after some time of slowly drifting through the reeds they parted and revealed an entire community of houses, restaurants, boats, viewing platforms and cooking areas all floating some 15 meters from the lake bottom.  Their original purpose was for defensive, as they could be moved if a threat arose with many of the islands containing watchtowers largely constructed of reeds.   Although this attraction is refered to as the 'Disneyland' of Peru, it was a unique, interesting and relaxing side trip.  We agreed with Seth when he said it was nice to observe others for a change as we are usually the ones in the fish bowl in this part of the world.  This was one of many islands on Lake Titicaca which sits at 3,811m, making it the highest and largest commercially navigable lakes in the world. 

Once we got past Puno, the lake and surrounding area got more and more scenic.  In fact, this lake is shared by both Peru and Bolivia and so we had several days to fully appreciate the size of the lake.  We said goodbye to Peru on our our 60th day in the country and final day left on our Peruvian visa.  Talk about excellent timing.  It felt fantastic to be moving into our 14th country, Bolivia, and to decide for ourselves if Salteñas are really the perfect snack. We will let you know!

Cycling down into Copacobana (or if you asked Roland, Copacobanananananana) was a nice surprise on the eyes.  Just 10kms from the border lay a sweet little lakeside village with a perfect combination of toursist essentials and steadfast local life.  Seth celebrated his birthday here and we even managed to round up a slice of birthday cake in his honour.  There were two other cyclists in town, Martin and Nessa (http://caminolatino.wordpress.com/), so there was a whole gang of us catching up and comparing notes of the roads ahead.

After one final night of camping together with Seth and Parker in an abandoned church we had to bid them farewell.  We headed towards La Paz as we have some volunteer work planned and to pick up our (much anticipated) new Schwalbe bike tires.  It's like Big Bird got a new hair do!  The brothers bypassed this big city ( which is no easy task to navigate by bike) and plan to bust-it through Bolivia and find themselves a sweet spot in Northern Argentina to fish.  Our paths may connect again somewhere in Salta?  We truly hope so as it has been something special having them around: waking them up in the morning, getting updates on their fed-ex package saga, learning how many times they vomitted overnight and being in the company of others that can eat 10 times more than the average person.  But most of all, we will miss the 1-2 hours each night of their roaring camp stove that drowned out all other noise.  We really don't know how we will get to sleep without it!  Seriously though, thanks Seth and Parker for your companionship, laughs, and slugging out some kilometres together on some of the tougest cycling terrain thus far.  What can we say?  It's been "DELICIOUS"!

What more can we say?

• We bumped into a group of seven Colombian cyclists making their way to Chile and in true Colombian style invited us to share lunch with them (http://www.travesiainternacional.blogspot.com/). 
  
• Who could have ever imagined that we could go almost two months without peanut butter?  We did it though and mostly didn't miss it thanks to the delicious 1kg pot of honey we bought in Huaraz that lasted us much longer than expected.  Now we are onto a pot of black gold, also known as Marmite from our cycling friends Martin and Nessa which is quite the taste of home.  It does make us wonder when we will see our hearty staple back on the grocery shelves though ...... maybe Argentina?
  
• Belinda knows she has been on the bike too long when she feels grateful for getting one of Roland's less sinister, not completely nostral hair singeing farts.  Shouldn't she just not want any fart smells to float her way, period?  Maybe there is a medical term for this issue?  Rather than 'instutionalised', Belinda has become 'tandemalised'.  Serious rehabilitation may be required after this trip to 'normalise' and 'resocialise'.  Enough of 'lise' thing already... HELP!